By Nancy Cramer, Special to the Kansas City Star

A year ago I returned from a three-week tour of Iran. We visited seven cities all around the country. I was impressed with the fine Islamic art and architecture, the Persians’ reverence for poetry and poets, and astounded by their early primitive but effective “wind towers” that cool their houses.

Their underground system of 25,000 “qanats” still brings fresh water to the remotest desert villages. But what I was not even slightly prepared for was the friendly reception from the Iranians. They were pleased, some overjoyed, to have American visitors.

More surprising still was the openness with which they voiced their dissatisfaction and disillusionment with their government. They spoke of repression of women and intellectuals and the scarcity of jobs.

Each year nearly 700,000 well-educated young men and women enter a barren job market. We heard heart-breaking tales of personal suffering from the eight years or war with Iran (in which the U.S. allied with former Iraqi leader Saddam Husseim, supplying arms and planes.) The people Iran are much poorer now than they were 30 years ago before the Islamic Revolution of 1979.

Shortages exist of food, fuel and other necessities. The Iranian economy is in shambles. The clergy, however, has stored countless billions of “rials” in Swiss bank accounts and control the major industries. When hearing these stories, I almost expected to find a “bajis,” or Revolutionary Guard, crouched hidden in the shrubbery or listening behind a stack of carpets in a bazaar. Thankfully, I was wrong.

Upon my return, I immediately started researching this fascinating and challenging nation. I have read over 35 books and given more than 15 slide shows. I tell my audiences, perhaps naively, perhaps with prescience: “I think there will be a real change in Iran in less than five years.”

Little did I realize that just a few months ago, after a hotly disputed presidential election, Iranians began demonstrating. At first, peacefully, although they were being violently attacked by police. Intrusion into their homes and arrests became commonplace, sometimes the victim is never seen or heard from again.

Women and even older people were beaten and killed by “bajis” riding into crowds on motorcycles, brandishing and flailing people with metal rods. Even now, weeks later, despite censorship of TV and cell phones, sporadic thousands still gather, daring to show their disapproval.

The Iranians are of the Shiite sect of Islam. Both Shiism and Iran were founded on the blood of martyrs. Their most important and sacred day is “Ashura,” the day Hussein, grandson of Mohammed, was killed. Just recently a young female bystander, “Neda”, was killed by a sniper’s bullet. Another name added to the Hall of Martyrs. Does the Ayatollah in his arrogance disregard Iranian history?

I definitely agree with President Barack Obama’s approach. He recognizes it is the Iranians who must decide their future. But what role can we play? There are many Iranians in the Kansas City area.

We can seek them out and tell them we support their courageous countrymen. We can learn more about Iran’s proud past as the world’s first empire. We can try to understand the Shi’ia religion, which permeates every hour of their lives. And I can pray for patience by the world’s leaders as the Iranians decide their future. Perhaps a new Iran will emerge from the bloodshed we witness now.

Nancy Cramer has traveled widely in the Middle East and North African countries. She is the owner of a fire suppression business.